Delhi

Our hotel was in New Delhi but our day of touring was to sights in Old Delhi. “New” and “Old” are misnomers. New Delhi should be “Newest Delhi” and Old Delhi, “Slightly Older Delhi” as Delhi has been razed, rebuilt, and moved seven or eight times during its long history. Each new conquerer over several millennia built forts, temples, palaces and mausoleums to impress the populace, rivals and their gods. There are dozens of major historical sites in Delhi in various states of ruin, preservation and restoration. For our day-long excursion, we concentrated on two, Humayun’s Tomb and Qutub Minar.

“Don’t drink the water and don’t breath the air”

We traveled by coach so, once again, many of my pictures were taken through tinted windows. Worse, the air was hazy with pollution, perhaps low by Delhi standards, thank goodness, but not something most of us would want to endure long term. 

We passed by but did not visit Lal Qila or the Red Fort. It was built in the mid 1600’s and covers over 250 acres, with a mile and a half of walls and turrets.

Passing the Red Fort

It’s a Sunday and the street markets were active. I was on the wrong side of the bus for pictures of the denser populated market areas. Besides the hive of peoples in the markets, many Indians were out in colorful attire, or at least the women were.


The longest stop of the excursion was to visit the complex that contains the mausoleum of Humayun, the second Mughal emperor. Commissioned by his wife, the mausoleum was built between 1565 to 1577. The structure is a fusion of Mughal and Persian architectural styles.

Gates into the mausoleum area.

Views of the mausoleum, including a finial of pure gold.

Humayun’s tomb and the dome above the central section.

There are several other significant mausoleums in the complex.

Our next stop was to visit the complex that is the site of Qutub Mknar, a minaret and victory monument minaret. Built between 1199 and 1220, it is 256 feet high. It’s spectacular. Climbing the tower is now closed to tourist. In 1981, a school group of children were climbing the narrow stairs of the tower when the lights went out. The children panicked and in the ensuing chaos, forty five of them fell to their deaths. 

The Qutub Minar and surrounding ruins as we approached it.

The minaret.

Inside the ruins. Right: The Iron Pillar, perhaps the oldest major iron relic in India (400 BC)

The women were all wearing colorful attire, perhaps because it was a Sunday.

We ate dinner in one of the hotel’s specialty restaurants, The Imperial Spice. The name should give you a hint as to the seasoning of the Indian cuisine. Spicy it was, but not so much as to reduce our enjoyment of the offerings. No doubt, for foreigners, the chefs accommodate alien palates. (At all our eating venues, western food is also offered but, other than at breakfast, we eat and greatly enjoy Indian cuisine.)

A few more roadside sites from the coach, here on on way to the airport.

We were in bed by ten thirty as our alarm was set for a 5:00 a.m. wake-up, with the luggage to be picked up at 5:30 a.m., 6:00 a.m. breakfast and a bus to the airport at 7:00. We’re  off to Kathmandu, Nepal.

Northern India and Nepal

Third Time Is a Charm

Frances and I have twice before tried to visit India, the first attempt cancelled because of COVID and the second indirectly submarined by the Houthis.  Both of those plans were to be cruise voyages with short but multi-day excursions to the interior of India. Perhaps it was best that we were delayed, as this Indian adventure will now be a land tour of two and a half weeks, including eight nights in the nation of Nepal. The travel company is Tauck, our first trip with this well-regarded company.

Our flights over were refreshingly trouble free, but it was still the usual long, draining, nearly sleepless experience that is simply something that must be endured. We did luck out with not having to change terminals at JFK. Even our luggage made it all the way to New Delhi.  We arrived at our hotel just before mid-night August 7, beating our travel companions, Brian and Karen McKenna, by a couple of hours. They were still a bit groggy when they joined  us for breakfast the next morning.

Our room, or suite rather, is in The Imperial New Delhi, a grand old hotel that displays its imperial heritage well. Built in the 1930s and located on an estate of eight acres in the heart of India’s capital, the hotel contains over 5,000 works of art and historic photographs. I hope we have time to tour the hotel and grounds.

Top two rows: Our suite. Bottom right: We meet Brian and Karen for breakfast.

Our first full day had a limited itinerary. It included an early afternoon meeting with our Tauck trip director and the eighteen of us in the tour group. Only the McKennas and Dallens are first-time Tauck travelers. We are among the older members of the group, which promises to be fast paced. Wish us good luck, or at least endurance.

The meeting was followed by a relatively short bus, er coach, tour of the capital. We had assigned seats on the bus and this will be standard (and changed regularly) throughout the trip, even in smaller conveyances. For now, on the large coaches, one can move to other seats, which Frances and I did once I located seats with more adequate knee room.

The capital complex, including the old and new parliament buildings in the bottom picture. These shots were the best I could do from the bus.

The last hour of the tour was a visit to Gandhi Smriti (originally the Birla House), where Mahatma Gandhi lived the last 144 days of his life and where he was assassinated.

Top left and bottom left: The front two rooms of this “bungalow” are where Gandhi lived those last 144 days. India (and now Pakistan and Bangladesh) were in the throes of chaos and millions of deaths, mostly between the Hindus and Moslems that followed India’s independence. Gandhi was killed by a Hindu extremist who believed Gandhi was too accommodating to the Moslems. Middle left: The “Martyr’s Pillar”, where Gandhi was shot. Concrete footsteps are memorialized between the bungalow and the assassination spot.

The group met for a reception and dinner in the hotel’s 1911 restaurant, named for the year King George V and Mary were coronated in London. We’re going to love Indian food.

It’s 3:00 a.m. in the morning as I compose this posting. We’ve a full day of touring coming up in a few hours. I do hate my slow adjustment to major time zone changes jet—but it’s truly still so worth it!

Traveling with the Dallens

What's Coming up?

It's been a great past several years of traveling, including India, Nepal, the lower Danube, the Amazon, the Galapagos Islands, Antarctica, Southern Africa, Argentina, Uruguay, Northern Europe, Canada and the Caribbean. I've moved the posting for our most recent trips to the archive: Blog Archive

So what is next?

In July 2025 we head back to Australia, first to visit the Kimberley, then to ride the India-Pacific Railroad from Perth to Sydney. We will be  home only two weeks before heading to Mongolia and China. We have plans, both specific and vague, for several trips after that, but we’ll get to those later.

Traveling with the Dallens

Blog postings for our past trips (at least those from 2015 on) have been moved to the archive. You can access the archive here:

Blog Archive

Thanks for following our adventures,

John and Frances